Seat tube length, center of bottom bracket to top of actual top tube: 53cm
Actual (effective?) top tube length, center of tube to center of tube: 58 cm
Seat tube angle, based on last line, ~70˚. Head tube angle is about the same.
From end of top tube length to top of headset locknut: 55mm. To stem extension ~100mm. Stem extension~60mm. The fork is threaded 32mm deep.
The frame and fork currently appear fine. If it makes a difference, sticker says: Ishiwata Double Butted CroMo. The dropouts are definitely over 3mm thick. Fork tire clearance~70mm, tire clearance for the rear~65mm. Bottom bracket is some Shimano 3-piece (ISO standard?). I don't know about the headset standard.
The wheels, both aluminum 559mm BSD, have been retensioned and retrued. The rim tape and tires are fine. Rim width~30mm, tires~50mm. solid axle hubs, cup and cone bearings throughout the whole bike.
The brakes are smooth-stud cantilever brakes, with the cantilever angle in the ballpark of 90˚, and adjustable yoke angles. No cable biting setups, just clamps. The right lever has the pivot 3cm away from the cable anchor, and about square from that, ~14cm to the tip of the trigger. The left is like this but with a 9 or 10 cm long trigger and a screw for adjusting the finger reach. Both triggers are all metal but the bushings. new housing, if not cables
The cranks are square taper, don't know press fit standard (but Schwinn approved!), stainless steel, 110 BCD!, but with an integrated spider and big ring. 165mm long, more narrow q-angle. The big chainring has like 52 teeth, and will probably work best with the 3rd, 4th, and 5th sprockets from the center of the bike (23, 19, and 16 teeth). The small chainring is like 40 teeth, and will work best with the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd sprockets from the center (34, 28, and 23 teeth). It uses a 12-20 year old Shimano 600 freewheel I guess. The rear derailer cage is 80mm long. I accidently put the wrong threadlocker on the limit screws, and those have plus driver heads, so press hard if adjusting. There isn't much drivetrain wear if there's any worth noting at all. The chain is fine, imo. The shifters are completely unindexed thumb shifters, and the front (right) shifter should take a flat screwdriver that fits well for adjustment. new housing, if not cables, on the shifting
All bearings overhauled if not bearly used (only pedals in that case). All fastenings checked if not cleaned and coated w/lube/threadlocker. I didn't come across any cracks, dents, considerable abrasion, or bent axles in the process.
Thanks Yall!
